Christmas recipes: How to cook the perfect turkey (2024)

Updated: 08:10 GMT, 7 December 2009

It's the highlight of Christmas day - a succulent roast turkey. But the British Turkey Sector Group admits that many first-time roasters don't even know the basics, including which end of the bird to stuff and how long a turkey should be left in the oven for. Don't get in a flap - read this indispensable guide before you start cooking.

CHOOSING YOUR BIRD

There's nothing worse than a mean Christmas spread, so make sure the bird you buy is big enough to feed all your guests AND fit in your oven. Measure the space inside your oven from the bottom shelf to the top, and the width, and take these details with you when you go to the butcher or supermarket.

Allow approximately 500g (1lb 2oz) of raw meat per serving per person. When buying your turkey, ask the butcher if they can give you some information about the bird. Knowing how and where it was reared will give you some idea of how it was treated during its life, which makes a big difference when it comes to quality and, most importantly, flavour.

The most common turkeys on sale in supermarkets are intensely farmed, battery-reared ones. Although cheaper, the conditions these birds have endured - little or no exposure to sunlight and hardly any exercise - mean that the meat you serve on Christmas day will be noticeably
inferior in taste.

If you can afford it, get a free-range turkey. They are far cheaper than organic ones and usually just as good. Although free-range birds can look less plump (because they've led more active lives) than indoor-reared turkeys, the meat is much more succulent and tasty because they have been allowed to mature at a slower rate and roam freely and happily.

The bird you eventually choose should have been reared outdoors and been hung 'long-legged' - butcher-speak meaning with its guts in - for at least a week. Black or bronze turkeys are known for a more gamey flavour and smaller breasts than white varieties. Top British breeds to look out for this Christmas are Norfolk Black, Cambridge Bronze and Kelly Bronze.

CHRISTMAS EVE PREPARATION

If you're buying a frozen turkey, make sure you allow plenty of time for your bird to defrost. This is a classic mistake and one that's responsible for many a delayed Christmas lunch. Your turkey has to be fully defrosted before you start cooking it and the time it takes to do so will depend on its size.

The best way to defrost your turkey safely is to remove all packaging, cover loosely with foil and place it on a tray in the bottom of the fridge. This is best done the night before.
When the turkey is defrosted, remove any giblets (put them to one side and keep them covered in the fridge to make gravy) and make sure there is no sign of the bird still being frozen in the cavity. Pat dry, inside and out, with kitchen paper.

STUFFING

It's a shame these days that most people buy ready-made stuffing, but you shouldn't be afraid to make your own. It's easy and will be much better. For a classic sage-and-onion stuffing, get some good-quality Cumberland sausages and remove the skins.

Meanwhile, fry a couple of onions with some chopped Bramley apple in about 25g of butter until soft. When it is cool, mix with the sausage meat, a handful of breadcrumbs and some chopped sage.

When it comes to stuffing the avity at the leg end, I like to place an onion (or two, depending on the size of the bird), a few crushed cloves of garlic, a lemon cut in half and loads of 'hard' herbs (such as rosemary, thyme, sage) wrapped in a bundle. Don't be shy - pack it all in.

COOKING

Preheat your oven to 180C/gas mark 4. When your bird is stuffed and ready to be roasted, weigh it and calculate the cooking time. You should be looking at about 20 minutes per 500g/1lb 2oz.

What you're trying to achieve is maximum flavour while keeping the bird moist. I like to make a herb butter (with finely chopped rosemary, thyme and flat-leaf parsley) and carefully smear it under the skin using my fingers, making sure not to tear it.

Traditionalists may prefer to put stuffing between the skin and the breast meat. Alternatively, stuffing some pancetta rashers under the skin will give you a great flavour and stop the meat from drying out. If you're pushed for time, at least try to lay some strips of pancetta or streaky bacon over the top of the bird.

Next, place your turkey in a large roasting tin or on a roasting tray, rub it with olive oil and season. Very roughly chop some carrots, celery, leeks and onion and scatter around the bird - this will add flavour to your gravy later.

Cover with foil and place in your preheated oven and cook for the calculated time.
Remove the foil for the last 45 minutes or so to get a nice golden-brown colour.
To check your turkey is cooked properly, pierce the thigh with a skewer and make sure the juices run clear - you don't want to see any pink.

SERVING

As with any meat, allow the turkey to rest after removing it from the oven - at least 15 minutes before carving. Always use a really sharp carving knife, and make sure the turkey doesn't slide about by holding it in place with a meat fork and carve it on a stable cutting surface.

Insert the fork in the top of the breast and with your carving knife make a deep horizontal cut just above the wing. Then, starting halfway up the breast, carve down to meet the horizontal cut, trying to keep the slices thin and uniform. Serve with a spoonful of stuffing, cranberry sauce and all the trimmings.

GAVIN BILLENNESS is a food writer and chef at eco restaurant Acorn House